So time to find the high spot -- which was by the door:
It was a very windy day, and noticed a lot of air flow. Went to town with spray foam:
One section was just a black hole so I had to break out the "Big Gap" version:
After this cures, and the sheet rockers are out of the way tomorrow, I'll go around with oscillating tool to trim this stuff up. I've cut this by hand in the past and this project alone will have been worth the cost of that tool :D
Spent basically the whole Patriots game tonight and then some just doing math and figuring out techniques to make the cabinets level since they need to be even if the floor isn't. (I suspect Wes will use floor leveler before putting down the cement board the tiles go on top of.)
I suspect I'll need more than standard shims to set the cabinets properly, found this video on how to make the necessary jig:
Although now I like this Jig video better:
And the fridge sitting in the garage -- KitchenAide KSCS23FVMS01
http://www.kitchenaid.com/shop/-[KSCS23FVMS]-405398/KSCS23FVMS/
So it is 35-5/8" wide, and per the installation manual takes a 36" even opening.
Counter Math:
Base Height: 35"
Laminate Thickness: 3/4"
Butcher Block: 1-1/2"
Tile Floor, w/ Backerboard: 15/16"
By the time we get to the stove (Butcher Block), the floor is 7/8" of an inch lower.
Stove is 35-1/2" (on carpet when I measured it)
Standard Counter Top height is 36"
I can rip 2x4 into 2x2 (1-1/2" thickness) as a base under the cabinets to raise them up:
35"+ 1-1/2" = 36-1/2"
36-1/2" + 3/4" Laminate Counter = 37-1/4"
To adjust for the tile floor, rounding:
37-1/4 - 1" = 36-1/4" Final Height
As for the butcher block where the floor is 7/8" lower:
36-4/8" + 12/8" - 7/8" = 37-1/8"
Less the tile:
37-1/8" - 1" = 36-1/8"
Which works, because I can shim out that final 1/8" to make them match the others.
Now if the base cabinets, with the 3/4" laminate, will be at 37-1/4" from the underlayment, I need the bottom of the top cabinets to be 18" higher:
37-1/4" + 18" = 55-1/4".
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